Foodtopia Moments

When in London, we of course wanted traditional fish and chips. The haddock fish was battered well and the chips were pretty good this year too. We also ordered some hummus and a cheddar rarebit which was like toast with cheddar and sweet caramelized onions. A lot of people have said they don’t like the food in England, but I found all of the food we ate to be pretty tasty.

Last Day Abroad

We have finally arrived at the last day of my summer abroad. London was a great host for the last day, with the food being a welcome change. Italy has amazing food; don’t think I don’t love it. But having the same mono-cultural food choices for 7 weeks can get a little boring. London, which isn’t universally loved for its food, was home to fish and chips, a samosa, and chicken curry to end the night. Not only have I not eaten these things in Italy, I haven’t seen these things except for the fish and chips at a place in Rome.

I have had a lot of time this summer to think and reflect and recharge my batteries. It’s always nice to end the summer on a calm note. We left Italy yesterday morning with a 23 hour layover in London. We used the day as best we could. As part of our more than 19,000 steps, Melissa and I saw Buckingham Palace, Westminster Abbey, Big Ben and Parliament, the London Eye, St. James Park, and toured the Churchill War Rooms. We then went on a gin crawl because there is so much more gin in London than anything I’ve ever seen in the US. We need to step up our gin game.

Today we have our flight back and get to see the dogs again. We are both excited for this. 

Foodtopia Moments

When in Florence, I will eat as the Florentines eat. And by that I mean a steak. Our friend Melissa and I shared a Florentine steak for two last night at Trattoria 13 Gobbi in Florence. Just around the corner from Piazza Santa Maria Novella, the restaurant is one of my favorites and the steak was out of this world.

Four our last cena (dinner) in Italy, Melissa and I ate at the Il Canneto Ristorante in the hotel. It’s a gourmet restaurant and the food is always delicious. I started with the Caesar salad, which has pollo (chicken), pancetta (bacon), and aciuggie (anchovies). My pasta was called tagliatelle alla Meditereaneo. It featured olive tagliate (chopped olives), caperi (capers), formaggio Grecia (feta cheese), pancetta (bacon), and cipolle (onions) in a saugo di pomodoro (tomato sauce). Melissa started her meal with a caprese salad, and a continued with a spicy penne arrabiata. We then shared the best chocolate mousse we’ve ever eaten. 

The Long Way Home

The summer is winding down, and so is my time in Italy. I just walked away from the table of my last dinner in the old country for 2019. Tomorrow morning Melissa and I catch our first flight, this one to London where we’ll have a 24-hour layover. It’s not a lot of time, but enough to get a taste of our British heritage, which is a big part of my makeup according to Ancestry DNA.

After spending two nights in Rome, Melissa and I headed to Florence for a night on Sunday. It was great to walk around Florence again, seeing the Ponte Vecchio, Piazza della Signoria, Piazza della Republica, The Duomo, Piazza Santa Maria Novella, and the leather mart. We really enjoy Florence, which is a little city compared with Rome and Milan. It was also really nice to have a chance to run into our friends Melissa and Alethea. It had only been a couple of days since we’d seen each other, but our paths crossed in daVinci’s old neighborhood, and we stopped for a last meal together over here for 2019.

This morning we had to return the rental car to the Hertz office in Milan. We woke up in Florence. But instead of making the direct route, we decided to take a quick excursion to Pisa to see the Leaning Tower. Melissa had never seen it in her travels and it has been a few years since I have been able to see it. It’s still neat after all of these years.

We arrived in Milan this afternoon, and have spent the better part of the day resting and preparing our bags for the trip home. We push out tomorrow and return home on Wednesday. We had a last, delicious cena (dinner) in Italy at the gourmet restaurant in the hotel, and have been relaxing in the room since we finished. Italy has been fun and I will truly miss it this year. 

Foodtopia Moments

When looking for a place to eat, I remembered a place near the Ice Club Melissa and I had stopped at. The restaurant is called Miscele and Fuoco, and the food is delicious, and affordable. I had the bucatini amatriciana and Melissa had a pizza. The amatriciana was the best I’ve had since I ate there last summer.

A Pit Stop in Roma

All good things must come to an end, and my Italian summer is now winding down. Before it’s fully over though, I am making a few stops. Melissa and I pushed out of Campmarino Lido midday yesterday, saying goodbye to the condo until 2020. It was a great summer, and I was a little sad to leave. I’ve had a good time this summer.

The first stop we’ve made is Roma. We arrived yesterday evening and just went out for dinner and gelato. We didn’t stay out long, planning to see a bunch of things today. And boy did we see a lot. In order, today we saw Castel Sant’Angelo, the bridge of angels, the Vatican, Piazza Navona, the Pantheon, the Trevi Fountain, the memorial to Vittorio Emanuele II, the Roman Forum, the Coliseum, the Arch of Constantine, Piazza Barberini, and the Scalini di Spagna. It was a whirlwind day of walking and sightseeing.

After baking in the hot sun all day, Melissa and I went for a visit to the Ice Club Roma, a bar made entirely of ice. Even the cups are made out of ice. It felt really good, but after about 40 minutes we realized how cold we were and also how hungry. We stopped for a quick, delicious bite, and then made our way back to the hotel shuttle. Now we’re relaxing comfortable at the Marriott. We push off tomorrow for Firenze. 

Foodtopia Moments

After an amazingly beautiful day at Isole Tremiti, we all took Zia out to Termoli for a meal under the stars at Ristorante Federico II. Nestled in the Borgo Antico (Old City) of Termoli, the restaurant is outside in a little square of the 800-year-old castle town. In honor of the octopus we saw in the sea, I made sure to have the polpo grigliatte (grilled octopus) appetizer. Served over pattate di prezzemolo (parsley potatoes), the octopus was tender and flavorful, and the potatoes were a great compliment. I continued with a rigatoni pasta with mixed seafood. To end the night, we stopped at Yo-Go Gelateria for the biggest cono di gelato (ice cream cone) that I’ve ever ordered. I had the pistachio flavor that I love and also a white chocolate and Kinder flavors. Topped with mini cones and some panna (whipped cream), it was a delicious end to our last night in Termoli.

Trip to Tremiti Before We Pack Up

Saying the week has been busy would be an understatement. We kicked off the week celebrating my birthday with a day at the beach and a nice dinner. The following day the first of three friends met up with us and today we filled out the group with more friends.

Though I’ve been in Italy since July 11, the time has seemed to fly by. I can’t believe I am already in the countdown to closing up the house for another year. I thought seven weeks was going to drag on and on, but it really hasn’t this year. I found ways to pass the time, and always kept busy living amongst the Italians. There is always laundry, cooking, or sweeping that needs to be done.

With Melissa in town, we went to Termoli for Saturday night. We walked the borgo vecchio (old city), and grabbed sandwiches at Eattico for dinner. Termoli was buzzing with excitement. Musicians and performers lined the streets, delighting crowds of all ages. And everyone seemed to be partaking in a little evening gelato. Every gelateria was packed with people.

Sunday was my birthday, so we spent the day on the beach. It was beautiful out, so we spent almost the whole day outside in the sun and sand. After the sun started to set, we headed home to change, and then out to Ristorante Netti for a delicious birthday dinner. I had pasta and pizza in the same night.

Monday we decided to take it easy. I went for a walk and Melissa rode a bike on the same route. We were expecting a friend of hers in the early evening, but she was delayed so we stayed at the beach. Our plan was to get some Italian street food for dinner and we did. It’s interesting what Italians call street food, as it would be pretty gourmet back home.

Tuesday was the day that we were expecting a packed house. Melissa's friends Alethea, Erin and Melissa are in town til the end of the week. It is a lot of fun having so many people to share the house with. We all went out to Ristorante Netti for the last time for 2019.

Isole Tremiti is a taste of paradise in the middle of the Adriatic Sea. Palm trees, tiny beach clubs, grottos, and crystal clear water greet you as you arrive on the ferry boats from Termoli. Wednesday morning, we hopped on a ferry and set out for a day on the Isle of San Domino in the Tremiti Islands. We all went out into the sea to look for different fish, and we managed to find an octopus in the wild. Without a doubt, Isole Tremiti is one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever visited.

Melissa and I push off Friday for Rome, so we are in house-closing mode. It dawned on me yesterday that we would be back to the US in one week. In that week, we have a day at the beach, a two-day trip to Rome, nights in Florence, Milan, and London, and a flight back to Newark. It’s going to be a busy last week abroad. 

Foodtopia Moments

Pasta with tomato sauce

This one can be called the Ferragosto edition. Yesterday, we had a feast for the ages. Zia made pomodori ripieno con tonno (tuna stuffed tomatoes), pepperoni rossi arrosto (roasted red peppers) and dessert. In order to get all of the dishes I wanted to make completed, I woke up early. I made the sugo di pomodoro (tomato sauce) for the pasta; salmone arrosto con rosamarino, limone, e vino bianco (roasted salmon with rosemary, lemon, and white wine); petti di pollo con pepperoni rossi, caperi, olive, cippole, aglio, e passata di pomodori (chicken breast with red peppers, capers, olives, onions, garlic and crushed tomatoes); zucca arrosto con rosamarina (roasted butternut squash with rosemary); finnochio arrosto (roasted fennel); and patate al forno con formaagio (roasted potatoes with cheese). From start to finish it was a great meal and great company.

Chicken Breast with veggies

Roasted butternut squash

Roasted fennel

Tuna stuffed tomatoes

Roasted Peppers

Ferragosto

Picture this: Campomarino 2019. A family gathers before, during, and after a big feast. August 15, the day of the assumption, or Ferragosto was celebrated yesterday. Ferragosto is a big summer holiday here in Italy, and kind of like the unofficial signal that the summer is winding down. The weeks following Ferragosto see an exodus of people from Campomarino transforming it from a slightly bustling outpost back into a sleepy, little community.

Melissa and I were playing host yesterday. We woke up with a long to do list and managed to get it all done. I did most of the cooking while Melissa cleaned, prepped the melon, and got the table ready. It was just us and Zia for dinner. We had a feast with leftovers for days. Everything was delicious and we spent most of the afternoon reminiscing about times of old and people who are no longer with us.

In the afternoon, my cousin Renato, his wife Dorrette, and their son Mario and his wife Cassandra visited. We sat outside, talking al fresco and continuing to reminisce. Ferragosto is a holiday I look forward to every year as it brings families together in a comfortable, casual summer setting.

After everyone had left, and we had cleaned up, Melissa and I headed to Lido Ritz for some twilight sun, and a round of Aperol spritz cocktails. It was a beautiful tramonte (sunset) yesterday, and a fitting way to end the holiday.

Foodtopia Moments

Sometimes the simplest meals are the best. Case in point: Ditilini. We always called it that because we really only used this type of pasta for two things, and the other one is a soup of sorts. Ditilini starts with olio di olive, pomodorini tagliate (chopped little tomatoes), cipole (onions), aglio (garlic), sale marino (sea salt),and basilico. Cook all of that until the onions are translucent and the tomatoes have made a sauce. Then mix in cooked and drained ditilini pasta. Served it hot and it is one of the most basic yet delicious meals one can make. 

Finally some Cool Air

It has been a lot of fun having Melissa over here. In the past week, we’ve been to the beach at Lido Ritz every day. Until today, it has been sunny and between 88-92 degrees. The weather broke today and the temps dropped into the 70s, and the spent most of the day behind the clouds.

Last night, my sister and I headed into Termoli for the first time since she’s been in town. It was packed, and the great new parking garage they built a few years ago has now been converted into a private garage only. Parking in Termoli is more of a premium than ever. We headed through the town and into the borgo antica, or old city. With a beautiful view of the beaches of Termoli we split a couple of sandwiches from Eattico. Then we moved into the square near the church of San Basso, and had drinks and snacks at Bigo. The festival lights were, concerts were happening, and the city was buzzing with excitement as we head into the big summer holiday Ferragosto, the day of The Assumption. August 15 is a very big holiday in the summer, and things will pretty much shut down tomorrow.

This week has also been a great one for seeing friends and family. Our friend Monia was visiting and we were able to have some drinks together. Then we got to see our cousin Vincenzo and his wife Mariella and their daughters Erica and Mila. We visited today with my cousin Roberto, his wife Anna, and their kids Serena, Lorenzo and Massimo. Then we also went to visit my Zio Matteo, my father’s brother who is 92-years-young and still is lucid and moved pretty well. 

Foodtopia Moments

At Ristorante Netti last night, both Melissa and I ordered pizza with some arugula and shavings of Grana Padano cheese on top. Melissa had the Pizza Netti with buffalo mozzarella and fresh chopped tomatoes. I ordered the Pizza Parma with sauce, mozzarella and prosciutto. It was one of the best pizzas I’ve ever ordered there and I would order it again in a heartbeat. We also started the meal with an insalata mista con tonno e mozzarella (mixed salad with tuna and fresh mozzarella) and a pepata di cozze (mussels in a peppercorn broth). The mussels here are just so good, melting in your mouth and never chewy. 

Northern Italian Excursion

Though I began this week at the beach, and I’m ending it there as well, there was an excursion north to pick up my sister Melissa. On Tuesday, I began my day at 7 a.m. with a 30 minute walk to the train station here in Campomarino. It is usually only a 20-25 minute walk, but a train was passing so I had to wait while the barrier was down. With a bus substituting for the train that morning, I had a 15 minute bus ride to Termoli, where there is a much bigger train station. In Termoli, I stopped for breakfast at my favorite paneficio (bakery) in town, and ate a piece of pizza for breakfast while overlooking the castle of Federico II. I grabbed some sandwiches at a local salumeria (deli) and set out for Milan via train. It was scheduled as a 6 hour trip, and we left right on schedule. However, while on the train we experienced delays that got me to Milan more than 90 minutes late. Luckily, I had a wide open schedule so I didn’t need to cancel anything.

Melissa arrived on Wednesday, and we spent most of the day relaxing and catching her up on sleep. Then we had a great drinks and dinner, and went back to the hotel. It was a relaxing day that we both needed.

Juliet's Balcony

Piazza Erbe

On Thursday, we pushed out of Milan in our new rental car, a Renault Captur, and headed off to Verona a couple of hours away. We walked the city for 2 hours (the time we had on the parking meter), seeing highlights like Pizza Erbe, Piazza Bra, Juliet’s Balcony and Juliet’s Tomb, and then grabbed a bite to eat off of a street vendor. It ended up being a day of snacks instead of meals. We then hopped back in the car and headed to Campomarino. We had a 6 and a half hour drive to get back and it seemed to go on and on. We had a problem with the radio at one point, with all of the controls freezing, no ability to control station and volume or back up camera. After the station we had on turned to static, we stopped at a rest stop and had a cammionista (truck driver) help us undo the battery cable. I had no tools with me for that and was still 5 hours from home. The radio finally turned off, something it wasn’t doing even with the keys out and doors open. We encountered a little traffic in the beginning, but for most of the day the roads were nice and clear. When we got back to the house, we headed into the center of town for a piece of pizza for dinner. Somehow, I managed to drive 9 hours and still walk 16,000 steps in the same day.

Yesterday was nice as we went for a walk in the morning and then headed to the beach. Lido Ritz had a happy hour special yesterday with three Aperol Spritz for only 10 euros. They hit the spot on a nice, sunny day. After the beach we went to the center of town, had pizza at Ristorante Netti, and then tried gelato from the two gelato places in the center of town. Both were delicious.

Foodtopia Moments

Since my arrival, Zia has been hosting Sunday dinners. This week, I told her I wanted to host, and we were going to have a gran sugo (a big Sunday gravy) We had cosci di pollo (chicken legs), polpette di manzo (meatballs), and brasciole. The meal was delicious. We even ended it with l’arragosta, a Chantilly cream horn from Shangri La pasticceria.

Time Flies

The saying goes that time flies when you’re having fun. This summer has been very relaxing here in Campomarino Lido, and it’s also been filled with good times. The past few days have been no exception.

Zia finally made it to the beach with me. I don’t mean for this year, I mean ever. Since I started visiting frequently back on 2002, she’s never been to the beach with me once, until this week. And she showed up to a sunny, 85 degree beach in a sweater. When asked about it, she said the sweater will block the wind. She did enjoy herself and it was good to see her get some sun. Zia said it’s been about 25 years since she went to the beach to relax and get some sun.

Before

After

The fence is done, and what a difference it makes. The place looks so good with the iron fencing painted and the wall a vibrant white with any chips filled in. Matteo, the contractor, told me he’d be done by Friday, and he was. I was really thinking it would take longer, but worked his tail off to get it completed. After he finished the job, Matteo invited me to go with to Termoli the next morning.

San Basso arriving

Matteo and I join in the party

Saturday was the beginning of the Festa di San Basso in Termoli. That first morning of the festaival is always scheduled the processione al mare, or a boat parade led by the boat carrying the bones of San Basso. The boats that follow are all of the fishing boats that are based at the port. Matteo picked me up at 5:30 in the morning, and we headed to Termoli, catching the aurora (sunrise) and beating most people to the port. Matteo wanted to show me how easy it is to get on one of the fishing boats so that I can do it next year. It was surprisingly easy. As soon as people started boarding the boats, we walked up to a boat called Pandora and he asked if we could come aboard. The fishermen said yes and we went on. It was now only 7:30 in the morning, we were on a boat, clouds were rolling in, and so was word that if it rains or the sea is too rough, the boat parade won’t happen. Shortly after the 9:30 arrival of San Basso’s remains at the port, complete with marching band and throngs of worshippers, we were told that we wouldn’t be leaving the port. The Guardia Costiera had deemed the seas to be too rough for the revelers on the boats. By this time, all of the fishing boats were in full party mode. Food and drinks were being passed around, and many boats were playing music and people were chanting. It was a wild scene. The boat with San Basso and the town and church officials did leave the port for about 20 minutes, but then returned to cheers from the docked fishing boat guests. The party lasts into the afternoon with people jumping off the boats into the water at the port, each jump met with cheers and laughter.

After I got back from the port and went to the beach, a long time family friend called and said they were coming to town to visit. Antonio, Anna and their daughter Doris came and we went out for a nice, relaxing passigiatta (a stoll around town), catching up and grabbing a bite to eat. It was the perfect ending to a great day. I spent the morning with a new friend, and the evening with old friends.

Aside from that, I’ve been hitting up the beach in the afternoons. Some days it is quiet and peaceful. Today was not one of those days. Sundays are especially busy at the beach clubs, and after raining yesterday most people decided that today would be their beach day. I don’t remember many closed umbrella at the beach club Lido Ritz today. 

More San Basso pics:

San Basso's boat arriving back into port

People worshiping San Basso

Pandora, our vessel for the festa