Last night in "The Old Country"

Mom and I both had restless nights knowing that our trip home was about to begin. Before and after our dinner with Zia at Ristorante Netti, we packed up the house last night, and shut down the water and electric this morning. Both of us were showered, dressed and in the car before 6:30 a.m. ready for our drive to Milan. I managed to snap a few photos of the house as we were leaving, and although I’m well past ready to head back to the States, I will miss the simplicity of my summer life in Campomarino.

The GPS first called for the trip to take about six and a half hours. However, with first rain that lasted for an hour or so, and then traffic that seemed to last for most of the morning, the trip turned into more than an eight hour stroll along the Autostrade. Luckily, we made it here safe and sound. We had time to nap, grab dinner, and head to bed early. Tomorrow is another early wake-up day.

Our next stop is New Jersey.

Foodtopia Moments

When preparing to close a house for the season, it is important to go through the fridge and use up what you can. Hence, our delicious frittata with salsiccia (sausage), pattate (potatoes), pomodori (tomatoes), pepperoni rossi (red peppers), zucchini, cippole (onions), and melanzane (eggplant). The thing was great the first day, and just as good reheated today. Yesterday, I paired it with a nice ciabatta roll with black olives. 

Closing time

As with every good thing, this trip must come to an end as well. Yesterday, we celebrated our last day at Lido Ritz for 2016 yesterday. I took a dip in the Adriatic, read my book, and got as much sun as I could. Because it was a weekend day, the place was filled with people. The sun was shining, the wind was ever so slight, and the water was warm, clear, and calm. Overall, it was a beautiful way for Mom and I to end our stay at the beach.

That brings us to today. It’s closing time at the homestead. I will admit that closing is much easier than opening, because there is less cleaning involved. All of the laundry has been washed, and all of the trash taken out. The fridge has been cleaned and the leftovers separated and purged. Bags are packed, and GPS has been set. Only thing left to do is pack up the electronics, sleep, and head on out. Packing the car should be pretty smooth, as we have the same type of car as last year, with one less person and luggage, so I know it will all fit. Tonight we have reservations at Ristorante Netti for one last time. I truly thought Thursday was going to be the last time there, but like a rock bands farewell tour, we’re making one last go around.

Our next stop is Milan.

Foodtopia Moments

Before heading out for a birthday dinner, Mom and I had a quick birthday lunch. As part of that lunch, I stopped at Ristorante Netti for some cibo d’asporto (food to go). Netti makes some delicious trays of food and then sells portions of it to go or dine in. Ristorante Netti also specializes in pesce (fish). I saw when I went in there some calamari ripieno (stuffed calamari) and it just looked tasty. It did not disappoint. The stuffing was essentially bread, chopped tomatoes, spices and pieces of calamari tentacles.

Instead of birthday cake, I made it a day of desserts. We had sfogliatelle, cannoli, and tiramisu throughout the day and evening. 

Birthday at the beach

Campomarino has basically a few things to do: Eat, group dance, walk, and go to the beach. The town is simple, the food is great, and the people love to gather. Yesterday was my 39^th birthday, so I chose to eat, walk and go to the beach. I did three of the four main activities of the town.

Most of the day yesterday and today was spent with my feet in the sand (actually I was mostly on a chaise lounge). It is relaxing to sit there, listen to the sea, and watch the people go by. I’m onto my fourth book of the summer, and I spend most of my time reading and getting a tan.

Last night, Mom, Zia and I hit the town for dinner at Ristorante Netti, and a little shopping on the street. I got a watch last night with some of the gift money Zia gave me (grazie, Zia), and this morning I picked up another while passing through the traveling market that arrives every Friday.

With the trip coming to an end soon, Mom, Zia and I went to Termoli for one last trip. I managed to head to the castle of Federico II to eat a slice of pizza and snap some photos. Then we all went to a couple of stores in and around Termoli before heading home.

After careful thinking, Mom and I decided to cancel our trip to Florence. We were going to head there on Sunday, but with her scooter not working and it being the busiest travel day of the summer as Italians head back to work on Monday, it seemed the right thing to do. A day full of traffic on the Autostrada doesn’t sound like fun. All we’d really be doing is checking into a hotel and getting dinner. Now we’ll just head straight to Milan on Monday.

Foodtopia Moments

With the time here in Campomarino winding down for 2016, it’s time for me to look at our stock of food and decide what to make. Yesterday, for pranzo (lunch), I decided to purge the remaining pomodorini (little tomatoes). I quartered each tomato, mixed in some cipolle (onions), aglio (garlic), basilico (basil), sale marino (sea salt) and olio di olive. It was the exact sauce that I had made the other day, however the twist was adding some fresh ricotta cheese on top. I had used fresh pasta, not dried, and when the sauce married with the pasta and the ricotta, it was a grouping that made for a memorable, delicious lunch.

For cena (dinner,) I was a bit of a fool and did not snap a photo. The Monaco family came over for the evening, and Felecina made some melanzane parmagiana (eggplant parm). It was out of this world. Anna Rosa made some delicious homemade tiramisu as well and we topped it off with some Montepulciano red wine. It was a tasty dinner.

Foodtopia Moments

Throughout the weekend and into today’s holiday, we have eaten some delicious meals. We hosted a cibo Americano pranzo (American food lunch) on Saturday with costine di maiale (pork ribs), ali di pollo (chicken wings), zucca (butternut squash), and pattate arrosto (roasted potatoes). We washed it down with refreshing sangria.

Yesterday, Mom and I had a late lunch. I didn’t start cooking until after 2, when all of the locals were finishing their lunches and heading to bed for a repose (nap). We had an easy meal of orrechiette pasta with a rustic pomodorini (little tomatoes), basilico (basil), cipolle (onions) and aglio (garlic) sauce mixed with them.

Today’s Ferragosto pranzo was also pretty easy as I made tonno e caperi (tuna and capers) in a tomato sauce over fresh pasta, and pollo al vino bianco e rosamarina (chicken with white wine and rosemary). Zia made some delicious sides, including pomodori ripieno con tonno (stuffed tomatoes with tuna), and zucchini grigliate (grilled zucchini). 

Buon Ferragosto

The big summer holiday, Ferragosto (the Day of the Assumption) has arrived and Campomarino Lido is pieno (full). There is hardly any parking in town today as the perfect storm of a long weekend, day trippers, and the usual people vacationing here has brought this town alive. Last night on my passagiatta (walk), I could barely move through the streets.

The past few days have been full of sunshine. Today, though, is the first without strong winds. For the past couple of days, I would go to the beach and all of the umbrellas would be closed thanks to the wind, but today the umbrellas are up and everything is perfect for the holiday. On the way to the beach each day, I pass the traveling circus that still has a few shows left in town. They house their animals really close to the road this year, and not a kid seems to pass by, either on foot, bike, or in a car, that doesn’t stop and take a peek. The elephant is the closest to the road and the kids seem amazed. It’s advertised as the animals of the movie “Madagascar” on tour together for the first time. Doubtful, but let them go with it.

This weekend we hosted an American dinner on Saturday with some good friends. Zia came down, and we all partook in some roasted hot n honey wings, ribs, roasted potatoes, butternut squash, and a summer salad of tomatoes, cucumbers and avocado. The meal and the company were great.

To celebrate the holiday today, Zia came over for lunch. I made the primo and second (first and second plates), and she made the contorni (side dishes). With the sun shining, not a cloud in sight, and a slight breeze rolling through, it has turned out to be a beautiful and blessed holiday. 

Imminent rain and a circus roll into town

All day today, rain clouds were on the horizon. Like a developing sneeze that never materializes, the rain never came. Dark clouds kept circling, with the occasional part for a sun ray to sneak through, and the beach was vacant of people. I went down this morning and laid on the lounger for a bit, but it was windy and pretty cold so I just read until it was time for lunch at Zia’s, which was delicious.

On my way back home, I noticed something that did materialize, the Circo Orfei. The traveling circus is back in Campomarino putting on a Saturday through Tuesday spetaccolo. Monday is the big summer holiday, Ferragosto, so the town is beginning to fill up. Sadly, we’ve had a decent amount of bad weather recently between rain, clouds, and wind, that the beach has not gotten filled more than a day or two. Monday is supposed to be sunny and hot, so that will likely change. 

Have car, will travel

Erik is due to head back to the US tomorrow, so the past couple of days have been a great whirlwind. It’s been a fun three weeks, and we’re done some traveling and eaten some great meals. We’ve seen some of the most beautiful places on earth, like the Grotta della Poesia, the Vatican Museum and the Amalfi Coast. We’ve also relaxed by the sea for hours.

Sunday night was Erik’s last in Campomarino for 2016, so we made the most of it. We had a great visit from friends of the family, Dainiele and Felicina Monaco, followed by a night out in Termoli. Most of the day was rainy, but the evening was clear and refreshing. Mom’s wheelchair broke this week, so she is basically immobile. So Erik’s last trip to Termoli is likely my last trip to Termoli. We had dinner at Ristorante Federico II, drinks at BiGo, and gelato at YoGo. Then we went back to Campomarino for an evening passiagiatta (walk).

Yesterday, we had a great frittata breakfast, followed by a trip to Sorrento. Driving near the Amalfi Coast town is daring, especially since getting there involves driving through some small, Napolitan towns, and they drive crazy. At any moment, a scooter, a biker, a walker, or a truck might just pop out in front of you. Nerves of steel are needed to drive these roads. Sorrento was as beautiful as ever. We walked the steps to the port, and all over the center of town. Last night we had dinner right on the main piazza at Fauna. It is the perfect spot for people watching, and delicious food. I love how they ended the meal by offering us a shot of limoncello with our check.

When in Sorrento, which is one of the few beautiful places that make up the Amalfi Coast, one thing to do is take a day cruise to the Island of Capri, as well as Positano and Amalfi. The day cruises do not run everyday, and there is little control of your time and what you can actually see. So if you’re planning on a trip to the Amalfi Coast, stay in Sorrento, but give yourself a few days to see it all. We were heading up to Rome today, so we didn’t have a ton of time to hand to a boat captain. Last night, Mom, Erik and I decided that it might be best to drive the Amalfi Coast. This is one of National Geographic’s Drives of a Lifetime, and they’re right. For the passengers, driving the coast from Sorrento is filled with breathtaking panoramas. For the driver, it’s a day filled with breathtaking turns and small prayers that we do not get clipped off the cliff by a local motorist or tour bus. We passed through many towns, including Massa Lubrense, Termini, Sant’Agata, Positano, Praiano, Amalfi, Minori, and Maioni. It was a beautiful ride. The coast is just stunning, and I completely recommend taking this ride to everyone. It was a whole new way to experience the Amalfi Coast, and one that I will always remember. There are spots to stop to take photos, or people can act like the Italians and just stop anywhere to get out and take photos.

After death-gripping the steering wheel for the entire coast, we hopped on an autostrade and took a jaunt up to Rome. Security is way more of a presence today so something is definitely up in Rome. Tomorrow, Erik has his flight back to America, and Mom and I head back to Campomarino for the final week and a half. 

Foodtopia Moments

Normally my posts just focus on the food, but today it’ll also focus on the view. We initially parked the car in Positano and wanted to find a restaurant with a view. However, we were far from the spot with lots of restaurants so we headed back to the car and continued on. We were looking for a place that had parking close and a great view. In Positano, we never quite found it, so we continued down the coast toward Amalfi. In between the two major Amalfi Coast towns lies the little city of Praiano. While driving down the road, I noticed a place that was a hotel and restaurant, with parking. So we took the chance and what a great one it was. The view from our veranda table was of Positano and Capri. It was just stunning. Luck for us, the food was delicious as well. Erik had a great locally-inspired ravioli dish with a lemon cream sauce. Mom had chicken scaloppini. I started with a dish of alici ripieno fritti (fried stuffed anchovies), then had a local gnocchi with a fondue of cheese and walnuts. It was delicious. We all had the house made, to perfection, tiramisu for dessert. 

Foodtopia Moments

Zia came over for lunch today, and her reaction to what I made was priceless. She asked, “What is it?” I took the leftover meat and sauce from Monday, a mix of pollo (chicken), brasiola, and salsiccia (sausage), and teamed it with Friday’s leftover roasted veggies, which included melanzane (eggplant), pattate (potatoes), pomodorini (little tomatoes), cipolle (onions), pepperoni gialli e rossi (yellow and red peppers), and zucchini. I took out any chicken bones and the toothpick from the brasiole, and let the two distinctly separate meals blend together. Then I mixed in some pasta, and voila, a delicious meal.

At the Ristobar tonight, I made sure to get an order of fresh insalata di polipo (octopus salad). As I suspected it would be, the octopus was tender and full of flavor. 

Back to the beach...then rain

Since returning home from Lecce, Mom, Erik and I have been lying low in Campomarino. We’ve been busy with the beach, and having great meals with wonderful people. On Thursday, My cousin Renato and his wife Dorrette took us out to Ristorante Netti. I hadn’t eaten much because we were on the road Thursday, so I made sure to have a whole pizza that night.

Erik is heading back to the States soon, so we took advantage of the time we had and went to Termoli on Friday. It was the end of the San Basso festival, and there was a free concert in the main piazza. The place was mobbed with people to the point that we had to walk around the crowd, not through it. The streets were even closed to accommodate such a crowd.

Rain was in the forecast for today, so we made the most of every ray of sunshine. Early this morning we went for a long walk, getting in more than half of our step goal. It was sunny, but lots of clouds were rolling in. We took the chance and hit the beach, but the water was too rough. After about an hour and a half, we called it a day and returned home. It’s been raining off and on ever since. We invited Zia over for lunch, and we all took naps here. The breeze was a welcome reprieve from the recent heat and humidity. After relaxing and reading a bit, and starting my latest script, Mom, Zia, Erik and I met up with some family friends for a great night out at the Ristobar. It is a great place for fresh seafood.

Should have sent a poet

When in Lecce, there is only so much to see in the actual city. That’s why when searching the place on Google images, these magnificent photos of places outside of, but not far from, Lecce appear. One such place about 35 minutes from the city caught Erik’s and my eyes, Grotta della poesie.

The place did not disappoint. It was one of, if not the most beautiful places that I’ve ever seen, and it was filled with onlookers, swimmers, and people taking photos. It was also a great spot for sunbathers. The blue sea, with the clear, sunny sky made for a perfect backdrop. The slight wind provided enough force for the kite surfers, and allowed people to tan without feeling the burn to intensely. It was worth the 35 minutes of driving and then some. Erik took a jump over the edge, and he reported that the water was magnificent. 

Foodtopia Moments

When Mom, Erik and I arrived today in Lecce, we wanted to get something to eat. We settled on a little, side street café named Joyce. There I had spaghetti al pesto Leccese. What set this apart from other pesto sauce pasta that I’ve had is that it was made with arugula and almonds instead of basil and pine nuts. It was a refreshing dish that I would definitely have again.

Lighting up Lecce

Lecce is a town that I always wanted to visit since I saw that a train I took originated there. I looked online that night about the city, and thought that someday I’d like to visit. Well today was the day. Mom, Erik and I headed down the coast for three and half hours, pulling into the Tre Stelle (three star) Hotel Aloisi. This is the kind of place where we have to leave the key with reception when we exit the hotel.

The city of Lecce is renowned for its Baroque style of art and architecture, and to call the city’s sights ornate is really underselling it. Now, there is not a lot to do here, and we pretty much saw everything in half of a day, but the art and architecture are really worth the time to see.