Foodtopia Moments

Eating at Eattico in Termoli’s borgo antica (Old City) again, I made sure to try something different. I ordered a small fried achiuge (anchovies), and had their bacala sandwich. It had a pesto made from capers and black olives, pepperoni arrosto (roasted peppers), and steamed bacala. The mix of flavors was outstanding.

A Morning of Business

Having a car at my disposal is much more comfortable than just using trains and my feet. Yesterday, I rented a car so that I can handle some business at city hall, my Italian bank, and at the water service office. Wow, business runs at a snail’s pace, and they are constantly adding unnecessary middle men. If you want to pay a bill, you can’t pay in the office. If you want to change address, that’s a different office. Just to deposit some money into my account to the guy, and this is no exaggeration, 45 minutes. I was dumbfounded. It took more than four hours to complete all of the work we need to complete, but we did it. The places we went were all within a ten minute walk if you did a circle. No travel was involved except the drive up to the center of the main part of town.

Being done at 1 in the afternoon, Zia and I picked up some food from Ristorante Netti and ate together on my patio. There was a light breeze and the sky was blue and clear. This gave me time for an afternoon at the beach. I was able to catch up on videos on Youtube, and take a few dips in the Adriatic Sea.

Tonight, I decided to use the car and head into Termoli. I had dinner at Eattico, the paninoteca (sandwich shop). I’ve been raving to people how good it is, but they all think the price is too high. Luckily, the place has lots of customers.Then I watched a beautiful sunset, before heading back. Sadly, the car has to go back tomorrow morning. Then it’s feet and trains (sometimes buses) the rest of the time here. 

Foodtopia Moments

Italy is known universally for its pizza and pasta, but in Italy the fish reigns supreme. Being a narrow peninsula, fish is a part of the culture. No matter where you are, a sea or large body of water is at most an hour away from much of the country (Northern Italy may have some more distant towns). Around here, lots of fish restaurants make an insalata di mare. Yesterday at Ristorante Netti, I tried theirs. It is mostly made up of tender calamari and succulent polipo (octopus), and is seasoned well, using plenty of delicious olive oil and natural spices. I totally recommend people traveling in Italy try this dish when they spot it. 

Campomarino Weekend

This has been a great weekend. I’ve written about 30 pages of a script, nearing the end, gotten plenty of time at the beach where I am starting book number two for the summer, and I got to spend quality time with great family and longtime friends.

The weekends are always busier here, just like in America. This weekend was no exception with the two town festivals taking place just days apart during last week (Santa Cristina on July 24 and Sant’Anna on July 26). Extra vendors have lined the streets, and there was an antique fair in Piazza Aldo Moro (which people have started calling Piazzetta Rosso because of all the red trim around the little square). Saturday night, Zia and I were able to spend time with my cousin Renato and his wife Dorette, along with their son Mario and his wife Cassandra. We went to Ristorante Netti, which was packed, and spent hours catching up and reminiscing. It was a great night.

Today I spent most of my hours at the beach. I realized this weekend that using the free WiFi at the beach would be a great way to catch up on some of my Youtube subscriptions. By today, I had also realized that the free WiFi has its limits and when the beach is packed it will run slow. However, during the 1 to 3:30 p.m. timeframe, when the bulk of people are at home eating lunch and taking siesta, the WiFi works great for videos. The rest of the time I read or chat with people back home. Tonight, the Monacos, longtime family friends, came for a visit. We went back to Ristorante Netti for another awesome night of catching up and talking about the future of the summer. After dinner we went on a short passiagiatta (evening walk) to the antique fair. We’re all looking forward to our next get together.

Foodtopia Moments

Last night I went to Eattico, a new street food restaurant in Termoli. I got a polipo (octopus) sandwich, which has marinated celery and potato along with the polipo, and I ordered a sgombro (mackerel) sandwich, which had a sweet sauce, tomatoes and red onions. It sounds piggish to order two sandwiches, but the plan was (and I stuck to it) only eat half of each, and finish the other halves tonight.

A Little Trip to Termoli

I was a little nervous about not having a car here, but the cost is unnecessary at this point. One thing I was wondering if I’d be able to do is travel to Termoli at night. Sitting on the beach yesterday, I looked up the train times and decided that I could go for a couple of hours and it would only cost me two euros. Years ago, the tobaccheria (smoke shop) stopped selling train tickets. So I used to just head to Termoli for free when we couldn’t buy a ticket. Yesterday’s trip was stunted a bit because unbeknownst to me, a new tobaccheria has started selling tickets. I was at the train station when a substitute bus (instead of train) pulled up. I figured I could just pay the driver. I was wrong. So I had to wait a little over an hour for another train. Thus, last night I needed to get a taxi back home.

While in Termoli, I picked up sandwiches at Eattico, one of my new favorite places in Termoli, and went to sit by the castle and eat. Eattico at 8:45 is much busier than 7:15 when I planned to go, so I couldn’t get a seat. I walked around Termoli, then headed back to the train station. The bathroom at the station had been locked about twenty minutes before it is scheduled to be closed, so I had to run into a kebab restaurant. Italy isn’t good with schedules. Posted times are kind of like suggestions.

I had the taxi drop me off in the center of town. Campomarino Lido, which was celebrating Sant’Anna last night, was filled with people in the center of town. There was a live concert, tons of street vendors selling anything from screwdrivers to sausage sandwiches. Seeing the whole street filled with vendors again was heartfelt, as that was the way it was when we first bought this condo. In 2002, 2003, and 2005, there were tons of street vendors, and open air theater, supermarkets, and a fiera (food, drink, and vendor festival) every two years. The past six years have seen many of those things cease to exist.

 For most of the day, I cooked and cleaned heading to the beach around 12:30. There were no clouds at all until about 6:30, when I was heading home. I definitely picked up some color today.  Hopefully I’ll get more tomorrow as well.

Foodtopia Moments

What’s old is new again is a cliché phrase, but for me it was a way to describe my pranzo (lunch). I made a sauce on Sunday, and have eaten it now three times. As I reheated the sauce, brasciole and turkey meatball that was left, I added a quarter of a ball of chopped buffalo mozzarella. The cheese melted right into the gravy, giving it a creamy texture, without adding a lot of cream. Topped with grana padano cheese, it was a great way to make old sauce taste different.

Campomarino Alive

This week is a very busy time for the Campomarinians. Last night, in Campomarino paese, the main part of town up the hill, was the Santa Cristina festival. It’s a fun time, and definitely the biggest celebration the town has all summer. Without a car, I didn’t make the trip up to the main part of town. Tonight, I noticed a lot more street vendors, including a square full of people selling crafts, tools, and wooden toys (yes, even Pinocchio dolls}. They’ll be here through Sunday. Tomorrow is the Festa of Sant’Anna, which is a modest celebration here in Campomarino Lido, the beach part of town.

For me, it was a day of workmen visiting the house. I had electricians here this morning. They installed three ceiling fans in the house, which is long overdue. Mom and I had looked for fans several times, each time finding smaller ones we did not like, and being told that the stores are out of stock for the season. I bought my fans my first day in town, but have been waiting for an electrician to come and install them. They also fixed a bathroom light that I haven’t seen working since 2003. After they left I had lunch, swept inside the house and outside on the patio, and went to the beach, totally forgetting that I had made tentative plans for a plumber to come fix some stuff in the bathroom. So I hurried back (still had three hours at the beach), and had the plumber fix things. Hopefully that is all the work I’ll need this summer so I can focus on relaxing by the sea and writing.

Tomorrow I’m having pranzo (lunch – the main meal of the day) with Zia, but heading to the beach beforehand and possibly after. I am also thinking a Termoli run might be in the cards tomorrow night. I just need to check the train station for a taxi to get home. There still is no Uber here yet. 

Foodtopia Moments

Sundays have always been a time for a great, home cooked meal. During my walk today, I picked up some tachino machinato (ground turkey), and some meat for brasciole, along with some veggies. I already had a bunch of tomatoes in the house. I chopped them up, added some cipolle (onions), sale marino (sea salt), and basilico (basil), and cooked it with some olio di olive. After spending some time at the beach, I came back and passed the sauce removing the seeds and skins, added the brasciole and turkey meatballs, and let it simmer for another hour before eating. Topped with some grana padano cheese, the penne was amazing.

Finally a Day at the Beach

After almost two weeks in town, I finally spent a day at the beach. It was a beautiful day, with lots of sunshine and almost no clouds. There was a nice sea breeze, perfect for tanning comfortably. Our usual umbrella guy is no longer working there so it is a little different for me, but still great service. This year, they have free WiFi, which is nice for using my Kindle Fire.

I went to the beach twice today, coming home to make lunch during the mid afternoon peak sunshine. This afternoon when I went back, the temp was right around 80 with a breeze.

Foodtopia Moments

The recurring food theme of the Cinque Terre was anchovies. They had the normal Italian dishes as well, but when in Cinque Terre, I must partake in the local flavor. I had Anchovies in pasta, fried anchovies, steamed anchovies, marinated anchovies, and stuffed anchovies. They were all good, but my favorite was the fried anchovies. As an Italian who enjoys a good Seven Fishes on Christmas Eve, the taste of the fried anchovies just hit home. It was like a taste of Christmas. The fried anchovies came as a mix or just by themselves. My favorite was the fried anchovies with a few pieces of fried bacala.

Cinque Terre in Un Giorno e Mezzo

The past few days have been a whirlwind. Phil was visiting, and we decided to head out of town on a quest to hike the Cinque Terre. We really only wanted to hike the shorter, less daunting part of it and use the train for the rest. On Wednesday, we set off early for La Spezia. It is a decent sized port city just south of the Cinque Terre, and where a lot of people stay or start their Cinque Terre journeys. Our hotel listed self parking for 13.25 Euros a day, which would’ve been fine. After a 7-hour ride, we got their to find the hotel has only four parking spots, the train station lots were full, and we drove for more than 30 minutes before finding a street spot. The next morning I got up early and moved the car to the train station lot. In all, it cost us slightly more than the cost would’ve been at the hotel.

The first Cinque Terre town we visited was Riomaggiore. This was a great place to start. It’s small, prices were the best of the five towns, and we found a place to grab a drink and a snack with an incredible view of the coastline. Riomaggiore was so nice, we went back the second day as well, making it the last Cinque Terre town we visited as well. The town set the tone as to what to expect; big crowds, lots of walking, anchovies, and scenic beauty.

After a couple of hours in Riomaggiore, we set off for town number 2 – Manarola. The scenic beauty of Manarola was incredible. Some people swimming, some people kayaking, people like Phil and I eating and drinking. Again we found a nice place with a view. Manarola seemed very small. There was not as much of a street to stroll and shop as there was in Riomaggiore. However, they did have more specialized artwork for sale.

Wanting to see at least three of the towns on the first day, we next went to Corniglia. Whereas the other four Cinque Terre towns are on the coast, Corniglia is at the top of a cliff overlooking the water. We never did see a beach there, just rocky coastline. We did, however, decide to take the long, windy road to the town. About half way up, we noticed a giant staircase leading to the same place we were heading. We trudged on, visiting most of Corniglia, before finding a place for a snack and a drink with at least a little view. It was sunset when we decided to head back to La Spezia. To get back to the train we took the staircase. The whole time going down I was glad not to have climbed them. We spent the rest of the night in La Spezia.

The next day, we decided against the 4-hour walk between the last two towns. Neither of us felt like making that trek, especially considering that it would be 4-hours for an experienced hiker, in 96 degree weather. We instead took the train to Vernazza. We loved it there. It’s a great place for swimming and kayaking or just renting a boat for the day. Fishermen in the harbor were busy working, and the church bells were ringing right at the water’s edge. It was truly breathtaking and a very close second to Riomaggiore. There wasn’t as much shopping or things to see, and stuff was more expensive than Riomaggiore. We found a little pizzeria, and split a bottle of local prosecco right at the port.

We then went to town number five, Monterosso al Mare. This was easily the biggest of the towns, and had the most developed beaches. There was a lungomare that stretched more than a kilometer. And it had the most access for a car of any of the four towns near the sea. Only Corniglia, the hill town, had more access for cars. Again we looked for a restaurant with a view, and enjoyed the sites of Monterosso. Wanting to get our souvenirs late, we made our way back toward La Spezia, stopping first in Manarola, then in Riomaggiore. After a last breathtaking view, we hopped back on the train and spent the rest of the night dining and drinking in La Spezia.

Having to get the rental car back in Rome before noon on Friday, we hurried out of La Spezia in the morning. We managed to get the car there at 12:06, but they were fine with it. Roma awaited us. We had a car service take us into the city for less money than a taxi. We passed the Arch of Constantine, the forum, the Coliseum, and Roman baths on our eventual way to Ice Club Roma. It’s a great bar where you meet people from all over the world…while drinking in a freezer…in a room built out of ice. It was a great end to the trip for Phil, who flew back to America today. My day was spent traveling by bus, train, and feet. 

Foodtopia Moments

Calamari

Cous Cous

Ristorante Federico II in Termoli is one of my favorite restaurants to visit when I am in Campomarino for the summer. The food is delicious, the service is high end, and the location is unbeatable, situated in a more than 1,000 year old castle town piazza. Last night, Phil and I took Zia there for her birthday. We had a great meal from start to finish. The menu has changed a bit since the last time I was there, but it was still great seafood. Phil had the new fish cous cous which had an avocado cream on top. I had the ciuffi di calamari con rucala e balsamico (calamari tentacles with arugula and balsamic glaze). For our firsts, Zia and I each had the rigatoni with pomodorini (little tomatoes), cipolle rosso (red onions), caperi grande (big capers), and pesce spada (swordfish). There was a lot of fish, so each bite could get each of the flavors. Phil had a plate of chitarra allo scoglio (homemade spaghetti with shellfish in a light tomato sauce). For second plates, Phil and Zia both had the soglia all’aqua pazza (sole in crazy water – a light broth with tomato and capers). I had the soglia al forno con patate (baked sole with potatoes). Without fail, Federico II always provides a great meal.

Rigatoni

Scoglio

Sole in Crazy Water

Baked Sole

Tanti Auguri Zia!

Yesterday was Zia’s compleano (birthday). We planned to get her a cake and take her to Ristorante Federico II for dinner. The day was hot and sunny, like hotter than most days since I’ve been here. But then the clouds rolled in for the first time since I’ve been here. It was a menacing sight considering we were planning on eating outside. It rained a little early in the afternoon, only adding to the humidity. However, the rain held off at night and we had a great meal. As we were driving back to the condo, you could hear thunder in the distance and see streaks of lightning race across the sky. It started to rain right as we got back to the condo, and has pretty much rained all night.

Phil and I are pushing out early tomorrow to head to the famed Cinque Terre in Northern Italy. So after today, I won’t be posting for a few days. 

Foodtopia Moments

Today was like a fantasy of food. We had a taste test of breakfast pizza, then went to a new place for lunch (new to me, but celebrating 50 years). It’s called Conchiglia Azzuro (blue seashell), and it’s right on the beach. It’s more of an elegant restaurant. I had the best plate (not pictured) of cozze (mussels) I’ve ever had. Phil got a whole fish and I got chicken. Tonight in Termoli, Phil had a pizza and steak at Anima e Core. The steak came with arugula and shavings of cheese, and was served sizzling. The pizza had cream, ham, and mushrooms. It was all delicious.

First Night in Termoli in 2018

For most of the morning, Phil and I hung out in Campomarino. We tried a restaurant I’d never been to, and hung out in the breeze on the patio. Tonight, though, we went one town up to Termoli. Not a huge town, but after 5 days in Campomarino it seems like a major city.

It was a fun night visiting some of my favorite summer sights on the old city. We had a few drinks in the castle town and admired the functioning remnants of a town built about 1,000 years ago. Tomorrow is Zia’s birthday, so we are taking her to dinner in Termoli.

Foodtopia Moments

I drove to Rome and back yesterday, dropping off the rental car I had and picking up my friend Phil and his rental in the process. When we got back we relaxed at Lido Ritz for a while, then went to Il Gabiano, a restaurant that has been open in town for more than 30 years. It was my first time there. The food was good, highlighted by Phil's special order of spaghetti carbonara. Though it wasn't on the menu, the cook was able to make it for him. Phil said it was the best he's ever had, and it looked delicious.

Foodtopia Moments

Today’s lunch was one that originated for me in America. Lately, I’ve been making a mix of pomodori (tomatoes), melanzane tagliatta senza pelle (skinned, chopped eggplant), patate tagliatta senza pelle (skinned, chopped potatoes – in the U.S. I used canned potatoes and they’re great), and aglio (chopped garlic). I made some here the other day, and it came out delicious. I mixed in a little pasta today and wow, what a lunch. I also made some chicken in lemon, rosemary and white wine.

A Packed Day

If you’ve ever had one of those days that feels like you didn’t set out to do a lot, but ended up really busy, you know what my day has been like. It’s still not over. But we only have the car for a few more hours, so Zia and I are filling the docket.

I was out of the house before 8 a.m. on a long walk to the end of town. The old beach club that I went to back in ’09 has been overtaken by the water on one side and is now affectionately called Le Petit Beach. It’s Friday, so the flea market is in town, and it is right in my walking path. I looked but didn’t need to purchase anything there. I did manage to stop  and get some produce from the farmers and bread, and breakfast pizza, from the baker on my way home.

Zia and I had plans later in the morning to head to the town hall. I was able to snag photos of the Minicipio (municipal hall), nuova chiesa (the new church), and the arena that is in Campomarino paese, the main part of town on the hillside. Where we are in the beach town used to just be squash and melon farms. We need to go back another day to the municipal building, as the people we needed are only working Tuesday-Thursday this year…not summer…year. And to top it off, they work three hours a day beginning at 11. Appointments can be made for other times.

When we got back I had to help Zia with her air conditioner. She’s told me at least 20 times how her Samsung is a better brand than my Kelon, but it’s funny that she needs me to control her remote because it’s digital and all in English. On the way back to my place, I ran into my parents’ old friends Vitorrio and Anna in the parking lot. I was just getting done telling them about what happened with my mom, and we ran into my father’s cousin Luigi. So we spent some time talking before I finally had the chance to head to Lido Ritz. By the time I arrived all of the beach dancing and lively music had ended. I grabbed a Fanta orange, which is surprisingly different here (think more Orangina and less Sunkist), and sat in the shade with a view of the mare (sea) and worked on the characters for my next script.

In a little while I’m taking Zia to the macelleria (butcher shop) and planning on an evening walk. Phil is coming tomorrow, so I will be on the road most of the day to get him in Rome and get back to the beach with him.

Foodtopia Moments

Throughout my visits to Italy, I have made mention of pizza being my favorite breakfast. Yesterday I went for a long walk, after which I had a delicious piece of zucchini pizza. I love the flavors of the zucchini and spices. Though no matter where I buy it, my Zi Olga always made a better zucchini pizza.

Working Days

The first few days in Campomarino are usually reserved for working. This year is no exception. I have mopped inside and out, cleaned the toilet, washed five loads of laundry including sheets and towels (which take forever to dry), clipped some of the overgrown (yet flourishing) garden, and done some shopping. Yesterday, the township turned off the water in all of Campomarino for six hours in the middle of the day, so my work was kind of put to a standstill. I went to the beach and had a slice of tomato pie and worked on an outline for a script I plan to write. Then I went to my bank in the main part of town and did some grocery shopping. I managed to snap a picture of the Adriatic Sea from the overlook while in the main part of town.

I was on a roll so I decided to look for ceiling fans for inside the condo. We need new lights inside, as the 1980s neon bulbs have seen better days. Years ago, maybe 2012, Mom and I looked for a fan for outside. We went to all the logical home and electronic places, each one saying they were sold out for the season. Later that summer, we luckily stumbled upon one at a local supermarket, and have been using the fan ever since. It’s not necessary all the time, but sometimes the breeze just doesn’t blow and fan feels incredible. This time around, I was able to snag three matching ceiling fans with lights and remote control. Now I need to have them installed, which is the harder part.

Zia and I headed into San Severo to do some quick banking where my father banked. It was a successful trip, the third time we’ve attempted this banking business since 2013, and finally they accepted the documents I brought. Zia thinks it was her doing, but after how mad my mom was the last time we went to that bank, I’m feeling that she helped move things along too.