Foodtopia Moments

While at the Friday market, mom and I stopped at the mobile salumeria (deli) and picked up some porchetta, grande abufata (olive loaf with a bacon-esque rind), and tacchino (turkey) to have for cena (dinner). We made delicious pane e pomodori (bread and tomatoes) as a base, added some pepperoni arrosto (roasted peppers), mozzarella di bufala (buffalo mozzarella), and olio di olive (olive oil), then topped with some of the fresh lunchmeat. Though a peasant meal, pane e pomodori is a delicious, light supper.

A rough sea

Mom and I awoke today with the full intention of walking downtown to the Friday market. However, the threat of rain made me drive us down instead, and we got back not 10 minutes before the sky opened up. It was nothing like yesterday’s rain, and by this afternoon I made it to a sun-drenched, windy beach. Most of the umbrellas were closed as the wind was whipping pretty good, and the Adriatic Sea was rougher than I had seen her all summer. Tonight is early to bed, as I’m driving to Naples to pick up my friend Phil tomorrow morning.

Foodtopia Moments

When my cousin Renato and his wife Dorette arrived today, we decided to head to Ristorante Netti. I figured I’d try something new, so I ordered the Pizza Cipollata. It had a whole lotta cipolle Bianca (white onions), olive neri (black olives), caperi (capers), and achiuge (anchovies). It was delicious, and somehow only cost 5 Euros. Thankfully they added only a few anchovies and spread them out as I only like a hint of the salty fish. I added some pepperoncino (hot pepper oil) to give the pizza a little kick.

Rain can’t dampen the night

As is a recurring theme this summer, today was hot. With temps in the 90s, Mom decided to stay in. Zia and I went to the markets this morning, and I ended up going to the beach alone a couple of times today. The beach in the evening about 5 p.m. is alive with people. People who work in the morning come for the first time, and the vacationers return after their siesta.

Tonight was the first time I’ve seen my cousin Renato and his wife Dorette. We headed out to Ristorante Netti and had a great meal as usual. Even the rain, which arrived in force about 10 minutes after my cousin got to our place, couldn’t dampen the fun. With the thunder and lightning already present, we decided to drive the mile and a half to the restaurant. We hadn’t even gotten out of the driveway when the heavens opened. As we were driving through rain and hail, I saw lightning strike so close that I could see sparks around it. Needless to say, we waited in the car a bit for the rain to stop so we could eat. Luckily I let everyone out when it died down, because by the time it stopped the restaurant was filled to capacity with a line of people waiting. Even though the rain stopped while we were eating, when we got back, the parking lot near my house had transformed into a lake, and Renato’s car was dead in the center of it. So we thought quick, threw some bags over his shoes, and he hopped in the car. 

Foodtopia Moments

Dinner tonight was at Generale Custer Ristorante in Termoli’s vecchia citta o centro storico (old city or historic center) section. The restaurant is in a secluded piazza in the old castle town of long ago ruler Federico II. I had a Pizza Puttanesca, which was topped with caperi (capers), olive neri (black olives), salsiccia piccante (spicy sausage), and pepperoncino (spicy red pepper oil). It was a good topping combination, and the perfect amount of spice.

An evening in Termoli

The sky was clear and sunny today, and it was in the mid 90s again. Mom used the day to relax inside the air conditioned condo, while I handled some clerical stuff for the condo. Zia and I had our condo association meeting today, in which I was one of five representatives out of some 36 possible delegates. Needless to say we really couldn’t make any decisions, nor could a condo association that charged me 76 Euros for the YEAR really make any significant changes.

One good thing that came out of the meeting was that I was able to ask the administrator of the condo for a phone number of a fabro (locksmith/door maintenance person). I called him up and he came out and measured for iron gates and doors to be installed. Again, same as the last guy, he said it couldn’t be done until later in the year. Not good for us. The problem is that the bars are custom made, and the factory is closing soon for vacation. His price was high as well. However, he was able to fix the broken glass and the ripped screen in about an hour, so that stuff is taken care of. If someone comes back here to rob the place this winter, they’ll be in for slim pickings. Old refrigerator, used stove, my over-sized underwear, and some sunscreen is about all we have here.

 

Tonight Mom, Zia and I headed into Termoli, the town just north of here, to walk around, shop, and have dinner. We wanted to try a restaurant near a seafood place that we like. It was a pizzeria, and the prices were good, especially for dining al fresco under the tramonte (sunset). I managed to buy some souvenirs, and will likely head back for more later on this summer. The town was in a slumber tonight, as they prepare for next week’s San Basso festival. The streets were eerily devoid of people, as if there was a reason not to be out. Normally the street is alive with people and vendors, but tonight the cafes were catering to only a few clients. Still the Yo-Go gelateria, with its remodeled interior, was churning out the same delicious, creamy product, and was the only busy place in town.

Foodtopia Moments

The Italians have it right; pizza is delicious in the morning. Today I walked to il fornaio (the bakery) appropriately named Pane e Pizze (Bread and Pizza). In the morning they make different types of pizza and one of the best is the cipolle (onions). I need to be careful with onions (toot toot), but it is such a delicious variety I can’t resist. The onions are cooked and seasoned perfectly. The very thin top layer ensures that the onions stay moist.

Sul la spiaggia

The past couple of days, most of my time out of the house has been spent sul la spiaggia (on the beach). It has been hot and sunny, but also there’s a bit of a breeze by the water that we weren’t getting on this side of the pine forest (between the houses and the beach there is about a block-deep pine forest with paths and streets going through it). Today I snapped a quick selfie while I was reading on the beach and realized just how gray my hair is getting. Maybe the sun is making it lighter. 

Foodtopia Moments

Today was one of those lazy beach days where you lounge in your bathing suit all day and night. Even so, that didn’t stop me from having some great food. For pranzo (lunch), Mom and I decided to make and take panini (sandwiches) with us to the spiaggia (beach). I bought the pane (bread) from il forniao (the bakery) this morning. We added mozzarella di bufala (buffalo mozzarella), zucchini grigliati (grilled zucchini), mortadella, pomodorini (little tomatoes, sliced), and pepperoni (peppers). No olive oil was needed, and the sandwich was bursting with flavor.

After the beach, I saw I had a little time to kill so I prepared a zucca (squash). This one was a butternut squash that I got from a farm stand for only 2 Euros. I chunked the squash, then I made a sauce of aglio (garlic), cipolla (onion), sale marino (sea salt), and pomodori pelati (whole peeled tomatoes). Once the sauce was cooked, I added the zucca. After about 20 minutes, it was delicious and will make a great meal alongside some sausage from the macelleria (butcher) domani (tomorrow).

Foodtopia Moments

Lunch today was a quickie, and it was delicious. I threw some salsiccia con semi di finocchio (sausage with fennel seeds) from the macelleria (butcher) in a pan in the oven for 45 minutes, then added some vino bianco (white wine) and put it back in until the wine had evaporated. The sausage was delicious and had no gristle in it. Zia ate some pollo allo spiedo (rotisserie chicken) left over from yesterday. For the main course, I walked to a nearby farm stand and picked up some zucchini and onions. I got five zucchini and two onions for only 1 Euro and 20 cents. I came back and diced up the zucchini and onion, and mixed in shavings of carrot and cooked with olive oil. Then I added white wine and cooked until the veggies caramelized a little. Once I had finished boiling some pasta, I drained it and mixed it all together. It was delicious.

Zia has landed

For the first time quest’estate (this summer), I saw Zia. Today, Mom and I ventured into San Severo to pick her up and bring her to Campomarino. She was pretty sick earlier this month, spending a week in the hospital, but seems to be feeling better and getting stronger every day. We ate lunch together and even spent an hour and a half talking tonight. My Italian is rusty. I seem to understand things fine, I’m just having trouble recalling words. I’m out of practice.

After lunch with Zia and a little down time, we set off for Lido Ritz and our spot in the evening sun. The beach was alive tonight. Kids were swimming, families were talking, and people were playing volleyball and soccer. Not to knock my volleyball team that I coached, but the beach had some real players that likely could’ve beaten our team. When you ask people, volleyball is probably Italy’s second most popular sport. The tramonte (sunset) was also beautiful tonight, filling the sky with a mix of orange and purple.

The plan tomorrow is for a longer, sunnier, beach day.

From A.M. to P.M.

Today was a busy day in Campomarino. I awoke at 8 a.m. to the sound of giant firecracker thuds signaling the day of the Santa Cristina Festival in the main part of town. Seeing that it is Friday, Mom and I walked downtown to the Friday market. It was bigger this year than it has been the past couple of years, and we did get some things that we needed, like tovaliogli (napkins), carta l’igenica (toilet paper), and other household items. We also went to the traveling salumeria (deli) and picked up some cheese, and lunch meats.

The afternoon was nice. Even though it was over 90 outside, it seemed like there was more of a breeze. I cleaned the patio after last night’s storm, and then headed over to Lido Ritz to read on the beach. I finished my first book of the summer, “Project Future.” It was about the behind the scenes legislative issues that went on with the creation of Walt Disney World. And for the first time all summer, I could see Isole Tremiti on the horizon in the Adriatic Sea.

When I got home, I told Mom to put on her walking shoes and that we were heading to the festival. The streets in Campomarino paese were lit with festival lighting and the glow from the accompanying market. We went shopping for gifts and dinner, walking away with a nice haul for the price. We managed to see the tail end of the processional for the Santa Cristina Festival, and were right by the band stand for the fireworks display. We stopped for dinner on our way back to the car, which was lovely street food. It was a great night for walking as the weather had cooled to the high 70s with a breeze. I managed to put on a little over 19,000 steps for the day. 

Foodtopia Moments

As far as days go food wise, today was a great day. For lunch, I made a quick sauce of fresh pomodorini (little tomatoes), cipolla (onion), basilico (basil), and olio di oliva (olive oil), then I tossed in some ditalini pasta and served with some grated grana padano cheese. 

Then tonight at the Santa Cristina festival, I had a piece of torcinello, which is a piece of liver and spices wrapped in the veins of a cow and grilled. It is a local delicacy and one I go for at least once a summer. I also had a panino kebab (kebab sandwich) which is make of pork and chicken grilled like shwarma and topped with pepperoni (peppers), funghi (mushrooms), melanzane (eggplant), pomodori (tomatoes), and kebab sauce. It was delicious, and one of my three favorite reasons for going to the festival. The other two are the shopping and the fireworks. The last things that Mom and I both ate were crepes with Nutella and peanuts. It was the perfect end to the night. 

When it rains...

This morning was another scorcher, with temps in the mid-90s. I went for a walk downtown to get breakfast pizza and buffalo mozzarella cheese, and hit up the ATM before the weekend drain. There is only one ATM in town, so when the weekenders arrive, it runs out pretty quick. Then I went to the beach, leaving mom behind to catch up on sleep.

I was just getting some photos of the acqua balli di gruppo (water group dancing), when a woman came over to me and asked me if I was willing to talk to her daughter in English because she wanted to practice talking to an actual English speaker. Of course I said yes. MariaChiara is her name and she is a 21-year-old med school student in Padua, studying cardiology. She has four more years before her residency begins. We talked for about an hour and a half before she headed back home for lunch. She knows English very well, and she is up to date with many of our TV programs, as well as those from England and Canada. The internet is an amazing tool. When I was in high school, Italy was like three seasons behind on “90210.” Now this woman was telling me about the most recent episodes of “Game of Thrones,” “Orange is the New Black,” and “Sense8.”

 

After a little while I headed back for lunch with Mom. The entire time we ate, we remarked about the bright sunny day, and how fast the clothes dry on the line. Later on Mom and I headed out to the beach, and on the way we noticed the gathering clouds and strengthening wind. Sitting on the beach, it was nice because the clouds and breeze were a welcome reprieve from the recent heat. The beach was alive with kids playing volleyball, MariaChiara and family stopping by to say hello, and people running in and out of the sea. That was until the first drop of rain. At the first couple of drops, people left faster than the pranzo (lunch) bell. We decided that we’d head back and get the clothes off the line. When we got back, we watched as huge dark clouds rolled in off the sea, bringing with them about a half hour of strong wind, followed by a full on thunderstorm. The thunder here rumbles so long between the hillside and the sea. It really is neat to watch and listen to.

When the heavens opened, they sure dropped a lot of rain. It was a pretty rough storm, with chairs blown all over the patio. 

Hot beach, warm water, hot day

We are clearly not Italiani veri (true Italians) as proven by our beach practices. Today was another scorcher, up to 94, with little reprieve in the forecast. By the time we arrived at Lido Ritz at 11, the sand was broiling hot and the water was warm. And the Italians were packing up and heading home.

Italians have a practice of eating their big meal, pranzo (lunch), right about 1 p.m. It is such a practice that the beach club ends their morning aqua balli di gruppo (water group dancing) at 12:30 with a song that ends in buon pranzo (good lunch or similar to bon apetit). On the other hand, Mom and I enjoy the peace and quiet of a deserted beach for the few hours that everyone else is back home. Most people either don’t have air conditioners or are afraid to use them for fear of catching a cold or raising their electric bill, so you can imagine cooking and eating in the heat of the day in a hot, stuffy condo. No thanks. At least there was a slight breeze on the beach. When we were in the water today, we saw a pescatore (fisherman) walking the beach with a wheelbarrow of calamari (squid), vongole (clams), and cozze (mussels) that he caught or scraped from the rocks today. As we exited the water, a couple passing by asked us in plain English if my mother needed her walker moved closer. They were from England, and they recognized us as fellow stranieri (foreigners) immediately.

Foodtopia Moments

Mom and I went back to our favorite restaurant tonight, Ristorante Netti. I wanted something different, so I chose the Pizza Paesana, and I added prosciutto cotto (cooked ham). The Paesana has slices of cipolle bianche (white onions) that become translucent in the forno di legna (wood fired oven). It also features a mix of mozzarella and pecorino Romano cheese, and fresh basil. The prosciutto cotto was a great addition. 

Oh baby, it’s cold inside

About 10 years ago I was touring il Coloseo in Rome with a best friend. During the tour, the guide (we beat the line by jumping in a tour group) delivered to the group a line that he presented as a joke. “Italians are allergic to work,” he said. Living here the past seven summers, I’m beginning to think that for many Italians, he was not joking. I have been trying since Friday to get a repairman here for the air conditioner. Today, the guy’s phone wasn’t even turned on. He was the person recommended by anyone and any store I asked. So I called a repairman who works on washing machines, and he gave me a number for a different guy. That guy was here in less than 15 minutes, and was out of here with a job well done in less than 20 minutes. So my tour guide 10 years ago was only half kidding around.

 

After we got the AC working, mom and I headed out to the beach. We got there late and stayed late, with me broiling my skin red for the first day in the sun. Only 29 more days, though a strong sun screen cream will be applied tomorrow. The Adriatic Sea was calm today, and warm, like a bathtub warm. It was about 97 today as well. When we left the house, we had left the AC running. When we returned, it reminded me of walking into the meat packing plants in Philly ask a kid with my dad. I didn’t know whether to breathe a sigh of relief from the stifling heat, or order a case of salami.

Mom and I both took a rest once we got back, the first time I laid down without sweating all season. Tonight at midnight, there are supposed to be fireworks at the beach.

Foodtopia Moments

It’s been a couple of days, but I made sure to take some photos. One nice thing about the weekends here is that the bakery makes pane rustica, the rustic bread with different salamis, cheese, and olives baked right in. I had some for colazione (breakfast), then finished it up for cena (dinner). 

For cena a couple of nights ago, I roasted a mix of farm fresh veggies including zucchini, melanzane (eggplant), pepperoni gialli e rossi (peppers yellow and red), patate (potato), pomodorini (little tomatoes), cipolla (onion), basilico (basil), e olio di oliva (olive oil). It was great the first night. The next day, I mixed the leftovers with some more olio di oliva and pomodorini, then mixed in some flat pasta noodles. It was delicious with a smattering of Grana Padano cheese on top. 

Last night I had my first gelato of the season in honor of National Ice Cream Day. (I think I would’ve had it anyway.) I had a mix of pistachio, Malaga (like a rum raison), and stracciatella (like vanilla with chocolate pieces running through it). Mom had extra dark chocolate and marscpone and fig. They had a ricotta and pear one that I want to try soon as well. 

We’ve also been slowly finishing (to avoid cavities and diabetes) the four marzipan “fruits” we bought the other day. I thought they were more almond paste than these are, though I always have almond left in my mouth when I’m done. So that means they’re healthy.

Feeling the heat

There is a heat wave going through Campomarino Lido right now. I know a lot of people in America are experiencing a heat wave as well, but our A/C is still down. Hopefully the guy can come today to repair it and get us some comfort. Sweating as I sleep is no fun. It has been in the upper 30s (mid 90s to over 100) here all week, and it was about 106 inland yesterday.

We are starting to get some things together here, though. We had someone measure to put up security gates yesterday. Essentially they are bars on the windows and doors, just like in Compton, but more decorative. I also went by the beach for the first time yesterday, and we secured our umbrella and seats for the next month at Lido Ritz. Only 280 Euros for a whole month at a beach club isn’t too pricey. We start tomorrow. It includes access to the night time events as well.

On my way back from the beach I noticed that the Circo Orfei was coming back to town. It’s interesting how they travel. I’m guessing the movie (or book) “Water for Elephants” hit home for many people in the traveling Italian circuses. 

The family home

Mom and I ventured inland today to my father’s hometown of Torremaggiore. All of the traffic we passed on the road was headed to the beach, so we had smooth sailing on the roads. We were meeting up with my cousin Luigi and his daughter Rosanna to visit the family home where my dad and many other relatives have lived throughout the past 55 years.

As an added bonus I got to see my Zio Matteo and my Zia Nannette whom I haven’t seen in 10 years. It was great to visit them again. We headed over to the house and I snagged a few photos before heading back to Campomarino. Once I got back it was time to wash the patio. I swept it one last time first, then threw down water, Spic-and-Span-ed a mop, and squeegee pushed the water out the front gates. Tomorrow, I’ll hit the inside of the condo.

Foodtopia Moments

At the traveling market today, I picked up some grande abuffata. It’s a type of lunchmeat with a bacon-looking porchetta wrapped around an olive and pimento loaf. If you ever see it in the states, try it. Someone actually took pickle and pimento loaf, married it to olive loaf, and then housed them in bacon.

A gardener I am not

Today began with a trip into the main part of Campomarino Lido to pick up some food for the fridge. I bought some lunch meat, a variety of cheese, farm-to-me veggies, bread for the day, pizza for breakfast, and meat for the freezer. It was a pretty good haul for less than 50 bucks.

When I returned, I knew I had to tackle the garden outside of our place. In the nearly 11 months since I left here, the vines have overgrown the garden, virtually strangling the trees. So I went about cutting vines, bagging scraps (four big bags today and two yesterday), and raking out old leaves, then sweeping it all up. This was all done in about sunny, 100-degree weather. The shade had a slight breeze, so I made sure to take a respite from time to time and drank plenty of water.

Tomorrow is a trip to my dad’s hometown, Torremaggiore, in the morning, followed by a mopping of the patio. I am actually looking forward to driving the Renault Megane again tomorrow. It handles really well. 

Foodtopia Moments

Spending seven hours on the road can be a drag. Italy, however, has some good eats on the Autostrada. One of my favorites is the Caprese sandwich from the Autogrill. When they hot press this simple sandwich of artisan bread, fresh tomato slices, and buffalo mozzarella, all of the flavors come together and burst in your mouth.

The robbery...

For those that don’t know, I am not a sleeper. I sleep 5-6 hours a day or I usually feel terrible when I wake up. However, today wasn’t one of those days. I went to bed about 11:30 last night, and didn’t get out of bed until after 9:30 this morning. We really didn’t have anywhere to be as our reservation for the car wasn’t until about 11.

After waiting an hour in line for the car, and then another half hour for our Renault Megane to be cleaned and delivered, we finally pushed off about noon from Milan on our seven-hour journey into the unknown. During the drive, Mom and I would periodically hypothesize about what we were going to find upon our arrival since the condo was burglarized in April.

Luckily, when we arrived, the damage was small. One window pane was smashed with a brick, one screen was slashed, some clothes were thrown on the bed, and the TV was taken. I guess the robber didn’t want Mom’s old robes or my old undies.

So I swept the patio and cleaned up broken glass, Mom started and hung two loads of laundry, and we went out for pizza. And I got my wifi internet working. Now we need to begin working on getting a glass guy, a screen guy, and a person to install iron security bars. Ten homes were broken into that night in April according to the police, and none of them had the iron bars on the windows. They specifically targeted the easy ones.

On the way to dinner, we walked by the new play area for kids. They’ve added a Ferris wheel, and spinning swings.